Budget - Entry Level Night Vision or Infrared Recommendation

[DustyDog]

Dang it, just saw him run off. Forgot to put out more dog food. Crap. View attachment 298525

Coyote?

 

[Bowhntr6pt]

NV and thermal are one of those things that getting your feet wet with “entry level” offerings might result in wasted money.

I’d suggest a six month or year long savings plan so you can get in at the mid-grade level from the start as using this technology can be quite amazing thus addictive.

Many people get that “man I wish it was just a little bit better” feeling when buying the cheap stuff then realizing just how good it can get.

 

[DustyDog]

NV and thermal are one of those things that getting your feet wet with “entry level” offerings might result in wasted money.

I’d suggest a six month or year long savings plan so you can get in at the mid-grade level from the start as using this technology can be quite amazing thus addictive.

Many people get that “man I wish it was just a little bit better” feeling when buying the cheap stuff then realizing just how good it can get.

And actually, I blame AGM for my ending up with the TS25-384 instead of the TS35. I kept looking at their photos of both, and could not see any visible difference between the objectives on the two.

Turns out they were using the TS35 stock photo for both scopes!

 

[Spearhead]

Check out Holosun DRSNV Night Vision optic for $999.99.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Zap!

 

[DustyDog]

Good & quick comparison of the original AGM Rattler line in the video below. Note how the TS25-384 seems best... due to its low base magnification (1.5x)... for closer ranges, which is why I put it on my Mini (aside from the fact that I'm poor ).

I'm blind as a bat, but have the AGM set up so I can use it with no glasses, since I don't want the eyecup smudging them.

Just tried it with the PIP last night (can't recall if I've used it before), which gives you one step up in magnification (3x) in the PIP. First, cold shot was dead-center L/R, about 1/2" low at 100 yds., in pitch dark. The other four were in a 1.375" group, a little high and left (closest 1.375" from center point; pic below. Hot spot from hand-warmers is 3" wide by 4" tall.). And note that I've not adjusted it even one "click" since I put it back on about a month ago... R&R holds zero really well... think I'm about to move "down" one, though, to get a better average between the cold and subsequent shots.

Just to show this is not a fluke, the last target shot with the LPVO is below the AGM target. Found 7 rounds of random M193 laying around (not its favorite ammo), fired the cold shot and spotted it, then fired 6 more. Cold shot (circled) & one more would have hit a penny, two more would have hit a quarter, and the three "flyers" were no more than 1" from center-point (2" target dot/100 yds). This is why, when people try to tell me what a Mini can and can't do, I say:

"Yeah, but I'm not limited by the experiences of others." My opinion doesn't come from "stuff I heard on the Internet"

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Thermal- Also the target blooms, depending on the brightness, contrast.
Also the scope adjustments are backwards and can cause issues. Ya move the crosshair TO THE IMPACT.

 

[DustyDog]

Also the scope adjustments are backwards and can cause issues.

BINGO. Here's what I've found, and note that I don't have the very latest firmware, so I'm not sure if they've resolved this:

X = Reticle movement, Y = POI movement

i.e, If you move the X setting in the positive direction, the reticle moves positive (to the right), thus the POI moves in the negative direction (i.e., to the left)

If you move the Y setting in the positive direction, the reticle moves negative (down), thus the POI moves in the positive direction (i.e., up)

Took me a while to catch on to this, since both my X and Y settings were always so close to "0"

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

BINGO. Here's what I've found, and note that I don't have the very latest firmware, so I'm not sure if they've resolved this:

X = Reticle movement, Y = POI movement

i.e, If you move the X setting in the positive direction, the reticle moves positive (to the right), thus the POI moves in the negative direction (i.e., to the left)

If you move the Y setting in the positive direction, the reticle moves negative (down), thus the POI moves in the positive direction (i.e., up)

Took me a while to catch on to this, since both my X and Y settings were always so close to "0"

Yep. If hit is high, right use the freeze screen, then move it up to the impact. If you shoot tin at night the hits are " hot" for a bit.
I did the opposite, used a frozen water bottle, worked great. Makes a black spot with a white halo. Easy to see.

 

[Metal Storm]

How well IR and thermal scopes work in the day time?

 

[DustyDog]

How well IR and thermal scopes work in the day time?

Speaking for thermals, the cooler it is the greater the differentiation between background temp and heat sources... so better in Winter than in Summer. Also, using thermals in the daytime worries me because you do not want the Sun to shine directly into your sensor... same as with some of the low-light, traditional NV units with intensifier tubes. This may apply to IR as well.

https://goingdark.com.au/blog-news/does-night-vision-or-thermal-work-in-daylight/

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

How well IR and thermal scopes work in the day time?

Most of the modern IR have a day mode, some have a pinhole in the cap for day use. Thermals can be used, but it's a challenge due to the light outside, and the sun makes just about everything hot. Better off using a normal scope in the day, YMMV.