New American Tactical 1191 45 problems

[shag 1911]

can you push the slide the rest of the way ?try a 22 lb recoil spring

 

[1911Junky]

Sounds like the chamber itself is too tight. If you give the gunsmith the ball ammo you are using he can hone out the chamber to allow the round to chamber completely and check for proper headspacing. Some manufacturers will leave a very tight tolerance on the barrel chambers. Once it is honed out, as long as the ramp is cut/Angeles properly..polished, good magazine, correct tension on the extractor it should cycle properly. How tight is the slide and barrel bushing? I have also seen slides and or barrel bushings set to too tight of a tolerance causing it to bing just before lockup, thus preventing full lockup. Just like shag1911 said can you push the slide forward to full lockup when this happens?

 

[Doradohunter]

Can't really push it but if you smack it with the palm of your hand it will

 

[Doradohunter]

The smith polished the feed ramp and rails. Didnt ask about the bushing.

 

[1911Junky]

The smith polished the feed ramp and rails. Didnt ask about the bushing.

Have you tried removing the barrel and dropping one of the rounds in it to see if it chambers and headspace is correct?

 

[Doradohunter]

The smith polished the feed ramp and rails. Didnt ask about the bushing. Headspace I do not know about however the round does slide in and out with ease.

 

[1911Junky]

The smith polished the feed ramp and rails. Didnt ask about the bushing. Headspace I do not know about however the round does slide in and out with ease.

If the round slides n and out easily it's not the chamber. I would definitely check the bushing tightness. If a round drops in and out easily with barrel removed, no jams, no nosedives then it would have to be something preventing the slide from going into full lock up. The only thing that is throwing me off is the fact you said it only does it with ball ammo. A picture of the issue would be helpful. If you do not have any luck with the smith and are ever in this neck of the woods I would be more than happy to look at it for you.

 

[JohnAL]

Have you tried removing the barrel and dropping one of the rounds in it to see if it chambers and headspace is correct?

It should actually "plunk" right into the chamber. If you have to push it in there is something wrong with the ammo or the chamber.

Probably time for a different gunsmith too.

 

[1911Junky]

It should actually "plunk" right into the chamber. If you have to push it in there is something wrong with the ammo or the chamber.

Probably time for a different gunsmith too.

I :second: that.

 

[Doradohunter]

The rounds do drop right in.

 

[Doradohunter]

Pictures

 

[1911Junky]

Would need more pics than that, that is just showing what we already knew...slide not in full lockup.

 

[CCHGN]

I've built a 1911 too,,a stronger recoil spring is not the way to go....you shouldn't have to be smacking it to put it into battery,,,another thing to consider is the barrel lock up to the slide.The barrel lugs may not be meshing with the grooves in the slide properly(causing it to not go into battery)..... or the wrong pivot link( too long or short, not allowing it to go into full lockup ). Make sure your smith is a 1911 smith, not a "jack of all trades" or a revolver smith or rifle guy. A good 1911 smith will break it all down and spec everything , "go-no go" the chamber and check the lug lockup and 'timing'( that the slide chambers a round and then the barrel goes up into lockup right before the slide goes into battery) right away and then the bushing. Btw, look around the rim of the spent casings, are there any notches or anything amiss there?

Also, IMO, put your money into getting the gun to run right before you put all the bells and whistles on there, sounds like a new barrel/slide is needed. Get rid of the MIMS parts and put Wilson's Bulletproof forged parts on it- slide stop, thumb safety, extractor, ejector. Put a nice trigger on there with overtravel adjustment.You got a nice beavertail on there, do you have plastic MSH? Even Kimber uses plastic MSH.


Here's mine

 

[flyandscuba]

It could be that the portion of the slide where the locking lugs on the barrel fit in has burrs, or isn't machined properly -- causing the barrel not to lock up properly, keeping the slide out of battery.

All of these "generic" 1911s come from the same factory in the Philipines, just with different roll marks on the slide. The slide to frame fit on the ones I've handled are very tight. Labor is cheap over their which results in the low purchase price over here. I suspect that something is out of tolerance.

Not sure if I would invest a ton of money in an inexpensive 1911. Trade it off on something more reliable... At least the Taurus 1911s are forged and not cast -- and have a lifetime warranty.

 

[CCHGN]

You can check the lug lockup yourself....take the gun apart, take the barrel out and take a magic marker and blacken the lugs on the barrel. Put it back togther and rack it a few times, making sure it goes into battery( force it if you have to- but you shouldn't have to). Take it back apart and look at the lugs.....any uneven wear is bad, the wear should be even and uniform across the lugs( because the lugs lock up into the grooves evenly)....if the pivot link is too short, the lugs will not lock up and the timing is too quick( think about it, the barrel is traveling on a shorter arc, so it's moving faster than the slide is cycling). If the link is too long, it's too slow and will bind up the slide and also will slam the back of the barrel into the frame( look for marks on the frame).....this is the heart of a 1911 running properly or not.

 

[1911Junky]

"Not sure if I would invest a ton of money in an inexpensive 1911. Trade it off on something more reliable... At least the Taurus 1911s are forged and not cast -- and have a lifetime warranty."

I'll take it off your hands and make a work horse out of her.

All great suggestions from CCHGN and Flyandscuba!

 

[1911Junky]

Build

I've built a 1911 too,,a stronger recoil spring is not the way to go....you shouldn't have to be smacking it to put it into battery,,,another thing to consider is the barrel lock up to the slide.The barrel lugs may not be meshing with the grooves in the slide properly(causing it to not go into battery)..... or the wrong pivot link( too long or short, not allowing it to go into full lockup ). Make sure your smith is a 1911 smith, not a "jack of all trades" or a revolver smith or rifle guy. A good 1911 smith will break it all down and spec everything , "go-no go" the chamber and check the lug lockup and 'timing'( that the slide chambers a round and then the barrel goes up into lockup right before the slide goes into battery) right away and then the bushing. Btw, look around the rim of the spent casings, are there any notches or anything amiss there?

Also, IMO, put your money into getting the gun to run right before you put all the bells and whistles on there, sounds like a new barrel/slide is needed. Get rid of the MIMS parts and put Wilson's Bulletproof forged parts on it- slide stop, thumb safety, extractor, ejector. Put a nice trigger on there with overtravel adjustment.You got a nice beavertail on there, do you have plastic MSH? Even Kimber uses plastic MSH.


Here's mine

Great looking gun. Nice job. Is that a Caspian receiver as well? Here is my latest Caspian build.

 

[CCHGN]

Yes, Caspian frame as well.....nice ,,,,,you went getto gansta pimp with the chrome, eh? ,,,lol

 

[Doradohunter]

Trading it off is not an option, Dad gave it to me and I can never sell or trade off guns he has given me. There are no plastic parts on this firearm at all. What pics do y'all need?

 

[Drauka99]

if possible I would try to setup a meet with one of these fellas and let them look it over... might cost you a few beers but would be worth it for the knowledge standpoint itself.