With my 270 win I can reasonably Moa with several brands of ammo. However, with the can attached the shots shift considerably or spread out. Do I keep trying ammo brands that works with both or decide it’s going to e suppressed or unsuppressed, but not both?
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Suppressed vs Unsuppressed advice.
- Thread starter bluesvet
- Start date
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Snake-Eyes
Master
Sounds like the rifle is consistent without the suppressor.
If adding a suppressor causes bigger groups, then there’s your problem to solve. Maybe the muzzle threads aren’t concentric to the bore. Maybe the suppressor is interfering with the projectile (baffle strike or uneven/turbulent air due to design). Maybe the added weight of the suppressor is causing barrel harmonic issues (skinny barrel and a heavy suppressor). Maybe the suppressor works fine for the first shot, and then starts to unscrew itself and the grouping grows due to the inconsistent effect on the projectile. If you screw on the suppressor and the “clock” position of the can is different between groups (sometimes the serial number is at 12, next time you attach it, it’s at 5 o’clock, etc), that might contribute.
Seems like It’s something about the suppressor.
If adding a suppressor causes bigger groups, then there’s your problem to solve. Maybe the muzzle threads aren’t concentric to the bore. Maybe the suppressor is interfering with the projectile (baffle strike or uneven/turbulent air due to design). Maybe the added weight of the suppressor is causing barrel harmonic issues (skinny barrel and a heavy suppressor). Maybe the suppressor works fine for the first shot, and then starts to unscrew itself and the grouping grows due to the inconsistent effect on the projectile. If you screw on the suppressor and the “clock” position of the can is different between groups (sometimes the serial number is at 12, next time you attach it, it’s at 5 o’clock, etc), that might contribute.
Seems like It’s something about the suppressor.
It could be the thread concentricity, but it could also just be the choice of suppressor (could also just be the mounting hardware being loose). Good sound suppressors also tend to create turbulence and cross cutting forces. If you want PRC with a suppressor you need to select a suppressor out of the gate purpose built for that.
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Rebel_Rider1969
Well Known Nuisance
Supers or subsonic?
Zeroed in
Master
Why would you suppress a .270 ?
I have two 30 cal suppressors of different designs. If I decide to suppress a rifle or pistol, I try both to see which plays the best with that firearm.
These are approximations, but per gun tried, my Ark30 shrinks groups about 50% of the time, no change about 25% of the time, enlarges groups about 25% of the time. My Quicksand shrinks groups about a third of the time, no change about a third of the time, and enlarges groups about a third of the time. Like I said, these are approximations…I used to keep exact figures. Now I just write down which to use with each firearm.
The Quicksand uses mounts of different styles. I found even the mount used sometimes made a difference and sometimes a dramatic difference.
You just never know till you try.
These are approximations, but per gun tried, my Ark30 shrinks groups about 50% of the time, no change about 25% of the time, enlarges groups about 25% of the time. My Quicksand shrinks groups about a third of the time, no change about a third of the time, and enlarges groups about a third of the time. Like I said, these are approximations…I used to keep exact figures. Now I just write down which to use with each firearm.
The Quicksand uses mounts of different styles. I found even the mount used sometimes made a difference and sometimes a dramatic difference.
You just never know till you try.
Zeroed in
Master
What's happening is the harmonics of your barrel has changed due to the added weight of the can you installed. It's the whipping effect that's throwing your POI off, or the gases within the can when fired.
You could try reloading your ammo and increase the powder weight by minute amounts until the "whipping" subsides, or you could use those barrel limbsaver deresonator/dampener (rubber donut looking thing) you place on your barrel and while you shoot (at bullseye), and without adjusting the scope, move the dampener up or down until the POI is nearest the bullseye.
Also, if your can is "tunable" (most have 12 tune positions), shoot, push can forward, twist 1 click, shoot again. Repeat until you're closest to your bullseye.
Then, once your scope is sighted in w/o the can, set you turrets so you can return to that setting.
Put the can on, shoot and tune the can to bullseye. Once you are nearest the bullseye and can't get no closer, now fine tune the turrets to hit bullseye. Set that setting.
Now when you want to shoot with or without the can, you can easily go to the pre-set settings of the turrets.
g/l
You could try reloading your ammo and increase the powder weight by minute amounts until the "whipping" subsides, or you could use those barrel limbsaver deresonator/dampener (rubber donut looking thing) you place on your barrel and while you shoot (at bullseye), and without adjusting the scope, move the dampener up or down until the POI is nearest the bullseye.
Also, if your can is "tunable" (most have 12 tune positions), shoot, push can forward, twist 1 click, shoot again. Repeat until you're closest to your bullseye.
Then, once your scope is sighted in w/o the can, set you turrets so you can return to that setting.
Put the can on, shoot and tune the can to bullseye. Once you are nearest the bullseye and can't get no closer, now fine tune the turrets to hit bullseye. Set that setting.
Now when you want to shoot with or without the can, you can easily go to the pre-set settings of the turrets.
g/l
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