Hunting, Cold bore, cold shooter, clean bore.

[Roaster's Gallery]

Snake-Eyes, do you remember that "cold-bore" shot you made at my place with that Ruger #1? Easy sale when the buyer hits the bulls-eye.

 

[ccc]

I have always bench sighted in before season, and have always hit deer where I aimed, cold bore or not.

 

[Bowhntr6pt]

I have always bench sighted in before season, and have always hit deer where I aimed, cold bore or not.

Same... each year I'll throw a couple down range to make sure I'm on and I've hit where I aimed.

At the end of the season, I'll run a patch down the barrel and that's it.

Same for my precision rigs, can't tell you the last time I did a real cleaning.

While I'm no longer an operational SWAT sniper, I believe my data book showed about 400ish rounds between cleanings. The Rem 700 LTR I was issued, which I still have and carry on duty, exhibited no distinct CB oddities. I've posted numerous 1/2 to 3/4 MOA groups on here before... for an out of the box factory rifle it's shoots extremely well.

 

[sloporsche]

I have always bench sighted in before season, and have always hit deer where I aimed, cold bore or not.

me too varmint season 243 win

 

[G-rat]

The snipers I know all clean their bores and then fire a fouling shot. I’ve never been much of a rifle guy, so I can’t say I’m an expert or anything. I just know what the guys I know personally do.

Shoot slightly durdy is indeed a thing... always put a round or 2 through before you put it away.

 

[Snake-Eyes]

Snake-Eyes, do you remember that "cold-bore" shot you made at my place with that Ruger #1? Easy sale when the buyer hits the bulls-eye.

 

[RaySendero]

I have always bench sighted in before season, and have always hit deer where I aimed, cold bore or not.

Me too.
But my experience has been that clean bore flyers are much worse than cold bore flyers.
And some get them confused calling clean bore flyers "cold bore flyers".
I won't hunt (or compete) with a clean bore in my rifles.
I do like you do. Sight-in and bore isn't cleaned thru the hunting season.

 

[Jester896]

using liquid lock ease can bring those so called flyers in a bit...once the liquid dries it leaves the graphite and simulate fouling.

if you shoot a shot...go home and clean the barrel...then go back the next day at the same time in similar conditions...and fire another round in that same hole...then do the same a few days running...that is called Cold Clean Bore...if it hit in a different spot every day you got clean bore flyers

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

using liquid lock ease can bring those so called flyers in a bit...once the liquid dries it leaves the graphite and simulate fouling.

if you shoot a shot...go home and clean the barrel...then go back the next day at the same time in similar conditions...and fire another round in that same hole...then do the same a few days running...that is called Cold Clean Bore...if it hit in a different spot every day you got clean bore flyers

So rem oil might be the best cleaner. It dries and leaves a film( moly?) like you are talking about.
I use it exclusively on every thing except the cetame. It gets grease. ( not in the bore!)

 

[DustyDog]

So many variables it's crazy.

Bipod location (i.e., fore/aft) and leg angle (if applicable), density/position of rests, clean/dirty lubricated/dry cold/hot bore, though for hunting you're generally focusing on cold bore shots. Only way I know is to try everything and keep detailed records.

I've all but set up a "filing" system for my significant targets, like the latest from my Mini-14: 7 rounds of random M193 I needed to get rid of (not it's favorite ammo) on a 2-inch dot @ 100 yds., cold shot circled, subsequent 6 shots sequence unknown, but enough to make a penny nervous

 

[Jhunter]

What is the speed of your cold clean bore? Mine could be 200 fps slower. The speed change alone will give a shift on point of impact. This can be repeated by reducing your powder charge. I wouldn’t focus on clean bore. For me clean bore is not data that I could use practically.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

So many variables it's crazy.

Bipod location (i.e., fore/aft) and leg angle (if applicable), density/position of rests, clean/dirty lubricated/dry cold/hot bore, though for hunting you're generally focusing on cold bore shots. Only way I know is to try everything and keep detailed records.

I've all but set up a "filing" system for my significant targets, like the latest from my Mini-14: 7 rounds of random M193 I needed to get rid of (not it's favorite ammo) on a 2-inch dot @ 100 yds., cold shot circled, subsequent 6 shots sequence unknown, but enough to make a penny nervous


View attachment 507544

Nice considering the internet bad take on the mini. My bride has one, I wouldn't want to be in front of it.

 

[Jester896]

So rem oil might be the best cleaner. It dries and leaves a film( moly?) like you are talking about.
I use it exclusively on every thing except the cetame. It gets grease. ( not in the bore!)

Rem Oil isn't a cleaner. The graphite in the Lock Ease is also in gunpowder

@Jhunter the only time CCB comes into play really is when the first shot has to count

I have heard people say the most accurate shot is a CCB...the rest is just controlled chaos

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

What is the speed of your cold clean bore? Mine could be 200 fps slower. The speed change alone will give a shift on point of impact. This can be repeated by reducing your powder charge. I wouldn’t focus on clean bore. For me clean bore is not data that I could use practically.

Have no idea on speed, don't handload. My ar's ( non floated, gi style) have this issue more than my bolt guns. Probably has to do with the handguards.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Rem Oil isn't a cleaner. The graphite in the Lock Ease is also in gunpowder

@Jhunter the only time CCB comes into play really is when the first shot has to count

I have heard people say the most accurate shot is a CCB...the rest is just controlled chaos

That is just what I use. No bore solvent just brush and patch. Hmmm. More reading required.

 

[Jester896]

That is just what I use. No bore solvent just brush and patch. Hmmm. More reading required.

you may want a borescope and something to cut carbon and copper.

 

[DustyDog]

What is the speed of your cold clean bore? Mine could be 200 fps slower. The speed change alone will give a shift on point of impact. This can be repeated by reducing your powder charge. I wouldn’t focus on clean bore. For me clean bore is not data that I could use practically.

Exactly, since it might limit you to one precise shot.

 

[DustyDog]

Nice considering the internet bad take on the mini. My bride has one, I wouldn't want to be in front of it.

Yep... when people tell me "A Mini-14 can't do that", I tell them:

"Look... I'm not limited by the experience of others."

Stated another way, I'm not telling you something I heard on the Internet, just like most of the tricks I try are not something I've seen others do. Took just enough engineering in the early '80s to get myself into trouble... and that was after I'd helped my father build an airplane in the garage at 10-11 years old (and I mean from straight lengths of 4130 tubing, spruce lumber, and Dacron... not a "kit"), worked in an automotive machine shop that specialized in racing engines at 16-17 years old, etc. etc.

Of course, it's not my daddy's Mini, either:

Last time I did a complete tear-down & cleaning (over a year ago), including R&R scope, I put it back together and immediately (and I mean first shots out of it) shot a .875" 3-shot group, barely 1 inch from dead-center, w/two in one figure-8 hole, with Hornady Superformance Match 5.56 75 gr. BTHP. I can usually swap between optical and thermal without even 1 click of adjustment being necessary on either.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Yep... when people tell me "A Mini-14 can't do that", I tell them:

"Look... I'm not limited by the experience of others."

Stated another way, I'm not telling you something I heard on the Internet, just like most of the tricks I try are not something I've seen others do. Took just enough engineering in the early '80s to get myself into trouble... and that was after I'd helped my father build an airplane in the garage at 10-11 years old (and I mean from straight lengths of 4130 tubing, spruce lumber, and Dacron... not a "kit"), worked in an automotive machine shop that specialized in racing engines at 16-17 years old, etc. etc.

Of course, it's not my daddy's Mini, either:

View attachment 507584

Last time I did a complete tear-down & cleaning (over a year ago), including R&R scope, I put it back together and immediately (and I mean first shots out of it) shot a .875" 3-shot group, barely 1 inch from dead-center, w/two in one figure-8 hole, with Hornady Superformance Match 5.56 75 gr. BTHP. I can usually swap between optical and thermal without even 1 click of adjustment being necessary on either.

Nice E-11 blaster!